A guide to visiting Vejer de la Frontera, Spain
The Spanish hilltop town of Vejer de la Frontera has to be one my favourite places to visit in all of Andalusia. Located in the Cadiz province just inland from the Costa de la Luz, Vejer is one of the top rated ‘pueblos blancos’ or white towns that you cannot miss. What I love most about Vejer de la Frontera is how unassuming it is compared to the likes of the popular white towns of Ronda or Setenil de las Bodegas. There are no stand out monuments or attractions to speak of. Yet when you discover the magic of what lies within the white-washed walls of this beautiful historic town, I guarantee you will leave longing to return. It wasn’t awarded the National Prize for the Beautification of Andalusian Towns for nothing after all!
So let me present with my solo travel guide to visiting Vejer de la Frontera. In this blog I will share with you my top places to see in Vejer de la Frontera, along with recommendations for places to eat, places to stay and must see beaches to visit nearby. Are you ready? Let’s begin!
how to get to vejer de la frontera
Vejer makes for a great day trip if you are staying in the nearby cities of Cádiz, Sevilla, Jerez de la Frontera or Marbella and the best way to get there is by car or by bus. Vejer is also approximately a two and a half hour drive from Malaga, so if you don’t mind the longer drive, it is possible to see Vejer if you’re staying in the city if you hire a car. The town is located off the N-340 coastal road between the cities of Cádiz and Algeciras and I recommend parking in the free public car park by Los Remedios Parque. If you want to take a bus, you can search for bus times and rates here. Get Your Guide also offer a number of day tours if you want to visit without the fuss of organising your own transport.
TOP PLACES TO SEE IN VEJER DE LA FRONTERA
The Historic Centre
The best way to enjoy Vejer de la Frontera is to simply explore the labyrinth of charming white washed streets within the historic centre. Just allow yourself to aimlessly stroll and enjoy the beauty in what you discover around every corner. The area is somewhat of a time capsule, as Vejer has been inhabited by different cultures during its lifetime, including Phoenicians, Romans, Moors and Christians. This is reflected in the architecture, with the countless charming doorways, archways and cobblestone streets. Vejer is full of picture perfect streets and alleys, often lined with lush green plants or adorned with pops of colourful flowerpots. Along the way you will likely spot front doors open with views of stunning patios within, which residents welcome you to come and enjoy. The love Vejer has for its patios is in fact celebrated with the annual Week of the Patios festival that usually takes place May each year. Throughout the historic centre you can also find many independent boutique shops selling clothing, jewellery, crafts and homeware, along with art galleries and delicatessens to find the perfect souvenir.
Plaza de Espana
At the heart of Vejer’s historic centre is the bustling, vibrant Plaza de Espana. Here you will find a selections of bars and restaurants surrounding a colourful tiled fountain that takes pride of place in the middle. Adorned with towering palm trees and colourful flowers, this charming plaza truly comes alive in the evening, so make sure to take a stroll here and soak up the atmosphere above all else. Plaza de Espana is a great reference point should you ever feel lost or need a starting point when exploring Vejer as most streets circle back to it. I highly recommend visiting El Jardín del Califa here, a hotel and restaurant which serves Moroccan cuisine in a nod to the towns Moorish hertitage. The restaurant has the most beautiful outdoor courtyard along with a roof top tea room, offering beautiful views of the surrounding countryside.
Vejer Castle
Dating back to the 10th century, it’s impossible to miss Vejer Castle, with it’s prominent position high up overlooking the town. The Castle is currently undergoing renovations, so visiting hours are currently limited until weekends 11am to 2pm. Inside you find two patios, one with an incredible example of Moorish engineering in the form of an acient “aljibe” or water storage tank. The second is known as the military courtyard and offers amazing views overlooking Vejer.
Jewish quarter
One of my favourite places in all of Vejer to explore is the old Jewish quarter known as La Judaria. The entrance to the quarter can be found down one of the most photographed places in all of Vejer called ‘Arco de las Monjas’ or ‘The Arch of the Nuns’, offering the most beautiful view of the town through a series of archways. Make your way through the archway and take left turn to enter the quarter. Soon after on the left hand side, you can find one of the most spectacular patios in all of Vejer, which you will notice from the sign above the door that welcomes visitors. Don’t be surprised if the residents come and say hello as they take great pride in the upkeep of all the plants here. Getting lost in the Jewish quarter is all part of the experience, where you will discover so many charming sloping streets and pretty doorways. You will also find remains of the old city walls here dating back to the 10th century, including the ‘Arco de Puerta Cerrada’, one of the four historic gateways that remain in Vejer.
Mirador de la Cobijada
Just through the ‘Arco de Puerta Cerrada’ is one of the best lookout points that offers great views of the white washed houses and terracotta roofs of Vejer. It’s not hard to miss as there is a striking black sculpture that sits beneath an olive tree here, known as ‘Estatua de la Cobijada'. This sculpture is of a woman fully dressed in a black cloak, with most of her face covered. This garment was worn by women for religious events during the Castilian period between the 16th and 17th century. The sculpture is considered a homage to the history and women of Vejer de la Frontera and is a must see when visiting.
The Church of Divino Salvador
Built upon the site of an ancient mosque, this historic church and bell tower of Divino Salvador like the castle, it is situated at the highest point of the Vejer. The church dates back to the time of the expulsion of the Moors in Spain, when the Christian monarchy were conquering territory under Muslim rule and many mosques were subsequently converted into Christian churches. After enjoying a look inside, make sure to walk around the back of the building and you’ll come another gateway arch of the walled enclosure known as the Arch of the Axe or Arco de la Segur.
Calle de la Corredora
Enjoy a stroll along the street called Calle de la Corredora, which offers the most incredible views of the surrounding countryside. If you stay overnight in Vejer, then you have to set your alarm to enjoy a sunrise from here. The street is lined with boutique shops, restaurants and cafes, including my personal favourite ‘The Singular Coffee’.
Mercado de San Francisco
Situated on the edge of the new town just off Calle Juan Relique is the lively San Francisco Gastronomic Market. Here you can enjoy a selection of culinary delights. Inside you will find several food stalls where you can try traditional tapas to more international cuisine including sushi, crepes and even vegan and vegetarian dishes.
Places to stay in Vejer de la Frontera
Vejer is spoilt for choice when it comes to accommodation, but my top recommendation is Casa Shelley within the historic old town. With a selection of rooms, a self catering space and charming outdoor patio, Casa Shelley and their hosts make for a comfortable and enjoyable stay. Located close to ‘Arco de las Monjas’ and the Church of Divino Salvador, it is available to book on booking.com or directly here.
BEST DAY TRIPS FROM VEJER DE LA FRONTERA
If you do stay overnight in Vejer, then I highly recommend a visit to the local beaches along the stunning Costa de la Luz. El Palmar is considered Vejer’s beach and is a popular destination for surfing. Here you will find a long stretch of white sand beach, surfing schools and a great selection of beach bars. You can book a surf lesson here through Get Your Guide! I also recommend visiting nearby Los Caños de Meca where you feel like you have been transported from Spain to the Caribbean, with the crystal clear turquoise waters and golden sand beaches here.
Thank you for reading my guide to visiting Vejer de la Frontera. I hope you have found it useful. If so, please leave your feedback in the comments section below!
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