My North Coast 500 road trip itinerary: Part One
What is the North Coast 500?
Known for being one of the most scenic roads in the world, the North Coast 500 drive truly is the best way to explore the north Scottish Highlands. Welcome to Scotland’s answer to Route 66. From towering mountains, to reflective lochs, rushing waterfalls and clear starry nights, the unspoiled and wild landscapes that await you on this drive are truly spectacular to behold. I promise you that the scenery will be etched on your soul forever. Get ready for a road trip like no other.
The route
The North Coast 500 is a circular route that starts and finishes in the city of Inverness and (fun fact) is actually 516 miles in total. You can drive the route heading either east or west and take as much or as little time as you like to make the drive. I spent just over two weeks driving the route, heading west from Inverness and taking a short detour via the incredible Isle of Skye. The shortest time I would recommend to travel the North Coast 500 is 5 - 7 days as there is just so much to see along the way. This drive is not one to be rushed, it is one to be experienced. I was blessed to have two weeks driving the route, but even I didn’t see it all!
I’m going to share with you my two week itinerary, which will include my recommendations for places to see, accommodation and car camping stops. This will hopefully inspire and help you to plan your very own North Coast 500 drive. I’ve actually had to split this blog into two parts because there is just so much to share. So let’s get started with part one, week one.
Day 1 & 2 – Inverness to Loch Ness
After a morning exploring the city of Inverness, a 30 minute drive along the B862 would take me to the world famous Loch Ness. You can take the A82, but the B road is far more scenic. I decided to stop over for a few days here to enjoy the area and I’d thoroughly recommend doing so. I seriously underestimated how long it would take to drive from one side of the loch to the other (just over an hour non-stop). So if you plan to just spend just a day there, make sure you allow enough time to drive AND spend time in places like Fort Augustus, Dores and Drumnadrochit.
Best places for photos and views of the loch: Dores beach and Fort Augustus
Top activities: A Loch Ness cruise, walk to the Falls of Foyers, hire a Canoe and Kayak from Fort Augustus
Top attractions: Visit Urquhart Castle, visit Loch Ness Centre and Exhibition to learn all about Loch Ness monster and make sure to meet Steve Feltham a.k.a the Nessie Hunter on Dores beach
Car camping: I spotted a few campervans pitched up just outside of Foyers around the Loch Mhor area. This area is remote, scenic and quiet but there are no public facilities.
Accommodation: Foresters Lodge Air BnB, Inverfarigaig (located just outside of Foyers). A beautiful remote B&B with a delicious breakfast, welcoming hosts and two friendly dogs.
Places to eat: The Craigdarroch Inn and the Waterfall Cafe (both near Inverfarigaig)
Day 3 – Road to Applecross Peninsula
I decided to visit the Isle of Skye for a few days before heading towards Applecross (that’s a whole separate blog post coming later). So I decided to take the A87 road west in order to venture towards the Isle of Skye before heading to the Applecross peninsula. Be prepared to be blown away by spectacular mountainous landscapes when taking the A87 west from Loch Ness. This stretch of drive should take two and a half hours, but I guarantee it will take longer as you stop off to enjoy the scenery and sites along the way.
Main points of interest along A87 road:
Loch Cluanie dam
Glen Shiel
Eilean Donan Castle - the most beautifully situated castle which you can also book to see inside
Before you make it to Applecross, I’d recommend stopping to visit Plockton, often referred to as the jewel of the Highlands due to its beautiful setting. From there, you will have to drive the famous Bealach na Ba road to reach Applecross village. Get ready for over 11 miles of winding single track road, surrounded by incredible mountains that will become a staple feature as you continue the drive into the Wester Ross region. Be prepared for hair pin bends as you drive 2,054 feet above sea level. At the highest point on a clear day you see across to the Isle of Skye and even the Outer Hebrides. Arriving in Applecross village, you will quickly discover just how remote the Scottish Highlands are. With nothing but a pub, a gift shop and a handful of houses, this really is the perfect place to slow down and embrace the present moment. I’d thoroughly recommend driving towards Toscaig where you will arrive to a quiet harbour quite literally at the end of the road.
My top driving tip: Take the drive Bealach na Ba road slowly and make good use of the passing places along the way. You may well have to reverse on single track road in parts to make way for passing traffic. It’s actually recommended that camper vans and large vehicles don’t make the drive and divert via the A832 to Applecross because of how challenging the drive is (although plenty still brave it).
Accommodation: Hartfield House Hostel (private ensuite rooms available) or the Applecross Inn
Car Camping: Applecross Campsite
Places to eat: Applecross Walled Garden or the Applecross Inn
Day 4 and 5 – Road to Laide
From Applecross I made my way to Laide which should take just over two hours without stopping. But of course, there were plenty of places to stop and see along the way that I can recommend.
Sheildag
I made a pit stop in the picturesque village of Sheildag, which in hindsight is a place I wish I had stayed over. Situated on a loch and surrounded by the beautiful Wester Ross landscape, take a stroll by the mix of whitewash and colorful houses along the loch before stopping for coffee or a bite to eat at Nanny’s café. There are a handful of other cafes, restaurants and a hotel here too.
Car camping: Sheildag campsite which has incredible views overlooking Sheildag Island.
Torridon and Beinn Eighe Nature Reserve
Shortly after Sheildag you will pass through the incredible views of Torridon Glen. This place really is a paradise for outdoor lovers. Here there are snow capped mountains and five Munros to bag if you are a keen hiker. There are also loch side walks, watersports and mountain biking routes here, plus boat trips to spot local marine life (seasonal only).
Car camping / accommodation: There are a few car parks along the A896 stretch next to Torridon river ideal for car camping, as well as a few hotels, a hostel and and self catering cottages.
I cannot stress enough how much you must include a visit to Beinn Eighe and Loch Maree, the UK’s first official nature reserve, as part of your North Coast 500 trip. Make sure to stop off at the Visitor Centre near the charming village of Kinlochewe (the village petrol station has a shop where you can grab some official North Coast 500 merchandise), before parking up at the Coille na Glas-Leitir car park along the A832. This is where the mountain and woodland trails start and is where you can marvel at the towering Beinn Eighe mountain and take a stroll along the shores of Loch Maree. The Slattadale car park, which gives the best views across Loch Maree and its islands, is about 15 kilometres further along the A832 towards Gairloch.
Gairloch and Loch eWE
If you can bear to part from Beinn Eighe, you will soon reach the small town of Gairloch on route to Laide. Gairloch harbour has the most spectacular views of the Wester Ross landscape and is where you can enjoy a number of boat trips to spot local marine life (seasonal only). There are also several golden sand beaches to enjoy in the area, including Big Sand beach. From Gairloch, I’d recommend exploring the impressive Loch Ewe which is steeped in World War Two history. The loch was used as a base for Russian conveys and original look out towers remain at Cove point to this day. You can learn all about the history at the Russian Artic Convoy Museum. The area also has the the most beautiful white sand beaches, including Firemore beach, Mellon Udrigle beach and Gruinard beach.
Accommodation: An Cois Na Mara Bed & Breakfast, Laide - wonderful hosts and the most delicious Scottish breakfast of smoked salmon and scrambled eggs you could wish for.
Car camping: There is a viewpoint just beyond Gairloch Golf Club but also plenty of bays to pull in along the A832 beyond Poolewe.
Places to eat: The Badachro Inn, Gairloch | Kishorn Seafood Bar, Strathcarron | Mountain Cafe, Gairloch
Day 6 to Day 9 - Assynt region
In my opinion the Assynt region is by far the most wild and breathtaking scenery of the whole North Coast 500. If there is one area of the route you don’t want to miss, it’s Assynt. The 80 mile drive to Stoer, where I decided to base myself, left an imprint on my heart and soul. Passing towering mountains, waterfalls and lochs, you will start to enter the most remote part of the entire drive. You’ll be back to single track roads in parts, which for me were more challenging than the Bealach na Ba road to Applecross, so make sure to take the drive slowly.
Ullapool
Ullapool is one of the only large towns you will find in the northern Scottish Highlands (and it’s not even that large). It is has a ferry port where you can enjoy a day trip to Stornoway on the Isle of Lewis or extend your trip to spend time in the Outer Hebrides. Ullapool offers a great selection of independent shops, cafes and restaurants in the town centre, along with hill walks and wildlife cruises (seasonal only). Here you will also find the last major supermarket until you reach the east coast, so make sure to stock up on supplies and get fuel here.
Strathcanaird and Achnahaird
As you drive the Strathcanaird stretch, make sure to stop and take in the views of the mountain ranges along the A835 towards Loch Assynt. I decided to turn off before Drumrunie and headed towards Achnahaird. I actually hadn’t planned to come down this road, but I had time on my hands and what I discovered along the way was truly spectacular. The whole area is so remote, so be prepared for miles of single track road with just the odd house along the way.
First you will pass Loch Lurgainn, which is surrounded by the Coigach hills and the snow capped Stac Pollaid. Many canoe or kayak on the water here or hike up the hills for incredible panoramic views over Assynt. Head further along to Achnahaird Beach, which has a small car park and is a short walk to crystal blue waters and white sands. The beach is popular with surfers and is definitely one of the best you’ll find along the North Coast 500. From here you can take a short circular drive towards Coigach, which has the most incredible view point overlooking the Summer Isles.
Lochinver and Achmelvich Bay
The small fishing village of Lochinver is an ideal little stop off point, with a few shops, a petrol station and the Lochinver Larder, the best pie shop I’ve ever come across. It’s a very pretty part of the Highlands where I’d recommend a stroll along the shores of Loch Inver if you have the time. Taking the B869 road towards Stoer, make sure to take a slight detour to visit the beautiful Achmelvich Bay. A beautifully sheltered white sand beach and waters that rival the Caribbean await you there. Make sure to walk to the smaller cove which is a right turn of the car park which is slightly more secluded and just as beautiful.
Car camping: I’d recommend staying at Shore Caravan campsite should you wish to car camp as it is right next to Achmelvich Bay.
Stoer
This place is pretty much as remote as it gets. This whole area is single track road, with nothing but the wild unspoilt Assynt landscape, a few cottages and some sheep for company. I’d thoroughly recommend hiking to the Old Man of Stoer, an old rock stack along the coast where you can spot dolphins and even killer whales along the coast, whilst enjoying spectacular views of Assynt from Stoer point. Make to take a stroll along nearby Clachtoll beach, another beautiful bay with crystal blue waters and white sands.
Accomodation: I really wanted to embrace the remoteness of the Scottish Highlands and stayed at the Stoer Smithy House, a beautiful selection of self catering cottages just on the outskirts of the village. Eric and Christian are the most welcoming and helpful hosts who will happily provide you with recommendations during your stay. With practically zero light pollution, make sure to sit out at night and enjoy clear starry skies and maybe even the Northern lights if you’re lucky.
Loch Assynt and Inchnadamph Bone Caves
Get ready to be blown away by the wild Sutherland landscape that surrounds Loch Assynt. Here you must stop to see Ardvreck castle and the ruins of Calda House, which are both situated on the shores of Loch Assynt towards Inchnadamph. You can get right up close and climb the ruins of Ardvreck Castle and walk the shores of the loch. There are two parking places nearby along the A837, so there is plenty of time to stop and enjoy exploring the area.
If you enjoy hiking and the outdoors, you must visit the Inchnadamph Bones caves where animal bones from the last glacial period were found. Species discovered here include Arctic fox, wolf, lynx, brown bear and even Polar bear. It is just over one mile from Paire Charaichean car park off the A837 to the caves. Along the route you will discover waterfalls and be surrounded by the towering Beinn nan Cnaimhseag. The climb to the caves from the path is steep and challenging in places, but to see inside the caves and the views from above is well worth the climb.
Thank you for reading part one of my North Coast 500 road trip itinerary. Part two will be coming soon and will cover the remainder of my road trip across the northern and eastern coast of the route, finishing back where I started in Inverness.
I hope this has given you a flavor of the beauty of the Scottish Highlands and some inspiration for your own North Coast 500 trip. My top tip is don’t just stick to the main roads and to venture into the more remote areas of Wester Ross and Sutherland if you can. That way you will discover your own hidden gems and truly immerse yourself in the remote beauty of the Scotland.
For more help and inspiration when planning your own North Coast 500 trip, please visit the official North Coast 500 website